Is All Korean Jeontongju Really Traditional?

What comes to mind when you hear “Korean traditional liquor”?

Perhaps you picture centuries-old brewing techniques or recipes passed down through generations. But did you know that WON SOJU, founded by hip-hop artist Jay Park, is also classified as jeontongju (전통주), or traditional liquor, in Korea?

WON SOJU is known for its clean, stylish design and modern brand identity. From its packaging to its marketing, little about it seems “traditional.” So why can it still be called jeontongju?

The answer lies in how Korean law defines the term.

In Korea, jeontongju is not merely a description for drinks made with old brewing techniques. It is also a legal category. Under the relevant Korean regulations, it consists mainly of two groups: folk-tradition liquor, or minsokju (민속주), and local-specialty liquor, or jiyeok teuksanju (지역특산주).

Minsokju is closer to what most people imagine when they hear “traditional liquor.” These drinks are connected to brewing cultures long passed down among Korean communities, often inheriting techniques associated with a particular region or family. To qualify, producers must meet specific requirements, such as carrying on an officially designated intangible cultural heritage brewing technique or holding official recognition as a Korean Food Grand Master.

Andong soju is a classic example. This distilled drink from the Andong region has a long brewing history, and its production techniques are regarded as an important part of local cultural heritage.

Local-specialty liquor is recognized differently.

It is made primarily with agricultural products grown in different parts of Korea and produced by qualified agricultural operators or agricultural corporations. Unlike minsokju, it does not necessarily inherit an old recipe or use traditional brewing techniques.

The key factors are the producer's qualifications and the origin of the ingredients, not whether the product itself appears “traditional.”

This means that a drink made by modern methods and presented with stylish packaging and branding may still be classified as jeontongju if it meets the relevant requirements.

WON SOJU is one example. It is made with Korean-grown rice and produced in a way that qualifies it as local-specialty liquor. Its brand may look thoroughly modern, but legally it is still jeontongju.

This classification makes jeontongju difficult to understand from the word alone.

On one hand, minsokju emphasizes historical continuity and cultural techniques, closely matching the usual idea of “tradition.” On the other, local-specialty liquor emphasizes local ingredients and producer qualifications, and includes many modern drinks introduced only in recent years.

In other words, two products both called jeontongju may have completely different histories, production methods, and market positions.

The gap between the name and the products it covers has prompted considerable discussion among people in Korea's drinks industry and among enthusiasts. For producers of local-specialty liquor in particular, the word “traditional” can sometimes restrict how a brand is perceived.

Some brands choose not to emphasize their jeontongju status. They do not want consumers to see “traditional” and assume that their products are old-fashioned, conservative, or distant from modern life.

Others try to understand the category from a different angle. Rather than looking only at its legal definition, they search for common ground in Korean ingredients, land, and culture. Some therefore suggest alternatives such as uri sool (우리술), or “our drinks,” and “locally brewed drinks,” hoping for language that better reflects the diversity of Korean sool.

Perhaps the most interesting thing about jeontongju is that it does not entirely match what we imagine “traditional” to mean. From historic minsokju to modern drinks that have emerged in recent years, the term encompasses a Korean drinking culture far richer than its literal wording suggests.